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...llamas are the oldest mammal family in existence...
Most folks
think llamas are new kids on the block but that is hardly the case. Llamas, or more
exactly, the camelidae family of mammals of which llamas are a member, can trace their
existence back 50,000,000 years. That is roughly twice the time horses and cows have been
here. And they started right here in New Mexico when this
area resembled the Serengeti Plain and existed here until about 12,000 years
ago when they disappeared...probably hunted into extinction by our favorite two legged
animal. Some where way back in time, the camelids migrated to Asia
over temporary land bridges and evolved into the two
types of camels that exist today. Others migrated to South America and evolved into
Guanacos and Vicuņas which still exist today as wild animals.
Guanacos are an incredible example of adaptation. Approximately 5,000 years
ago, the native humans living in the Andes domesticated Guanacos and through selective
breeding produced what is today called the alpaca and the llama. Alpacas are raised for
their wool and are too small to be used for packing. Llamas are raised to be work animals,
i.e., packers. And that brings us to the present day. Llamas are still used by the
peasants in the Andes because they are easy to raise, eat little,
rarely get sick, and can exist quite well
on the poor browse of the Andes, and with the possible exception of the Yak, will
outperform all other pack animals at high altitudes.

The llama pictured here with my grandson, Josh, is
Dakota. Dakota is a 19 year old, 420 pound male llama. One of his distinctions is that he
is the Alphallama, which means that he reigns supreme in his herd. What
it is that makes a llama the alphallama is difficult to describe. To me, it is that
Dakota has more of the energy that makes a llama a llama. All the other llamas recognize
it and give him his due. When packing, he is one of the herd and behaves with intelligence,
confidence and politeness like all the other llamas. He is calm,
cool and collected and has
been led by a three year old ( with adult supervision ).
...a llama must be part of a
herd...
El Paseo LLama has a herd of 18 male llamas...we call them "the boys". Of this number, 11 are fully trained
packers, 2 are in training, 3 are pets and 1 is retired. A herd such as this is called a
bachelor herd. This is a natural occurrence for Guanacos in the wild. Until the young male
Guanacos can assemble their own herd of females and stake out a territory, they band
together in a bachelor herd. Llamas, having been domesticated for only 5,000 years, still retain many of the
instincts of their antecedents. It's in the genes. One of these instincts is the herd
instinct. A llama must be part of a herd.
...well developed territorial and
dominance instincts make a good packer...
In a llama herd, there is a definite social order in
which each of the boys knows his place and social standing. Therefore we have Dakota at
the top and the other boys arranged below him in social order. The more dominant llamas
keep the less dominant llamas in their place but also act as mentors teaching the
youngsters all the skills that they will need to survive in a llama's world.
This social order is a source of security for all the
llamas.
While there
is only one alphallama, all male llamas develop territorial skills and dominance factors.
This can be interrupted by gelding at an early age. This results in a llama with little or
no interest in dominance or social standing and a boy that won't be a good packer but will
make a wonderful pet. It follows that the llamas that have well developed territorial and
dominance instincts make the best packers.
El
Paseo LLama does not subject our boys to surgical alteration (gelding) and
therefore our boys are all natural, the real thing. The other factor that makes a good packer is
what we call "body style". As with humans, an athletic body style predisposes
the llama to outperform llamas with other body styles when carrying a load on a trail.
Packing llamas are athletes in every sense of the word.
...the llama
is socialized to develop a
good relationship with humans...
Llamas reach puberty in their second year and herd
positioning starts. Many llama owners call this fighting but in a herd with a well
positioned alpha leader, it is more like jousting with a lot of dust, and noise with
little if any damage and is great to watch. This is all driven by hormones and if there are no females to fight
over, it all settles out during the third or fourth year when the llama finds his place in
the herd.
The llama that is going to be a packer has to
develop a relationship with humans as well as with his herd mates. During the first two
years, the youngster learns to trust humans in close proximity and learns to be haltered,
led, groomed and touched. This process is called
"socialization" and is the same process that kittens and puppies go through to
become comfortable with being touched by humans. He learns to let his
human lift his feet to have his foot pads inspected and to readily climb into
a trailer.
The llama matures physically
at the beginning of his third year and this is when the training can enter the
packing phase. The young llama learns to wear a saddle and panniers, walk with
other llamas in a string and is with some fine tuning of earlier training is
ready to go out on the trail for graduate work.
This part involves getting experience. He will learn
to walk on a trail, handle obstacles, bushwhack and to recognize loose dogs, mountain
bikes, horses, elk, grouse and other new developments as non-threatening. The length of
this process depends on the llama's personality and the rate at which he is exposed to new
stimuli. It can be as short as a month for a "natural" or two seasons for a more
"cautious" boy. At the end of this period, the llama is a mature experienced
packer.
...the llama no longer sees humans as a predator but as a team mate...
The
socialization process plus all the training and experience leads to wonderful
working relationship where the llama no longer sees humans as a predator but
as a team mate. The best adjusted can be ridden by children and be totally
comfortable with a human on their back.
Not all llamas are the same. Training is the factor that makes the
difference in your experience with your trail buddy. An El Paseo LLama packer is an
excellent packer PERIOD!
...50,000,003 years later the
llama is ready for you to lead him on your trek...
So after 50,000,003 or so years, the llama is ready
for you to lead him on your trek. What can you expect? Probably the first thing you
will have to do is shed a few preconceived ideas. For one, anything you learned about
horses and mules you can forget. El Paseo LLama packers don't kick, bite
or spook. They won't panic at the sight of some new animal and run off down the trail.
Their
size and demeanor makes them perfect to be handled by inexperienced persons
and to be ridden by children. Past
clients who have had experience with horses marvel at the gentleness of our llamas and how
easy and effortless it is to hike a trail with a llama following close behind.
...llamas do spit ...at each
other...
Probably the most common misconception concerning
llamas is that they will spit at you. I have found that people who have never seen a llama
believe this. Llamas do spit... at each other. It is a form of communication between
llamas which means back off, get away, you're too close, this is my food, etc.
Dogs will growl and cats will hiss...it's the same message.
Since the
llama doesn't like the taste of the "spit", he will more likely make a spitting
sound then actually spit. When the situation calls for the real thing, the spit is not
saliva but partially digested grass. As I pointed out earlier, the trained llama develops
a working relationship with humans and
since we are not
competing for their food, they have no reason to spit at us. No one on an
El Paseo LLama expedition gets spit at by a llama. Once
a llama is trained, he is comfortable with humans
and is not threatened by us.

Rocket is a
handsome boy.
Well-trained llamas are gentle, cooperative, polite,
easy going, calm under stress, and love to go on expeditions. They will carry their loads
all day long without complaining. Depending on the size of the packer, their usual loads
range from 75 to 100 pounds. In a pinch, they will carry a heavier load but not as far.
Llamas don't have hooves. Their evolution in the Andes led to the development of a two
toed foot which has pads like those of a dog only larger. This gives them several
advantages. The soft pad doesn't tear at the earth and their passing leaves no more sign
then the family dog. El Paseo LLama follows the
"leave no trace"
ethic on all its hikes and expeditions. Llamas are perfect for this. When we
leave a campsite, the only trace is scattered llama manure which very closely resembles
that of deer.
...elk are fascinated with this
new creature in the forest...
Now an
elk is a pretty crafty creature with lots of woods smarts. This is especially
true of the old bulls. After all, they didn't get to be an old bull without
avoiding hunters and surviving all the hazards of living the wild life. A
couple of years ago, I took three of the llamas on an end of season trek (a
busman's holiday) up into the upper reaches of Placer Fork. It was early
October and the rutting season was still on and there was a sizable herd of
elk in the forest past the meadow where we were camped. They couldn't be
missed even though they were avoiding us as they were making quite a racket
running through the trees up and down the canyon. Neither the llamas or I paid
a whole lot of attention as this level of activity is not uncommon in the back
woods at this time of the year.
In the
evening of the second day, I was sitting in the growing dusk, just relaxing
and waiting for dark to start the campfire, when I happen to look at the
llamas. All three had their noses, eyes and ears pointing in the same
direction. One thing about llamas, if they all are focused in the same
direction, there is something there. They were looking out across the meadow,
so I looked. There was a big old spruce blocking my view, so I leaned to my
right to see around it. I darn near fell off the log as not fifty feet away
was a big old bull elk with a rack that was so broad, my jaw dropped and I got
goose bumps. He had walked up to our camp to see the llamas and couldn't see
me because of the spruce and the semi darkness. But there he stood, as
magnificent as they come. My kingdom for a camera! He was the alpha bull for
the herd we had heard all day and was checking out these new creatures in his
territory. He and the llamas stood there for an eternity just looking and
looking. Neither seemed perturbed by the presence of the other and I sat
soaking up the beauty of the scene. After what seemed like a long time, the
old bull calmly turned and sauntered back across the meadow and disappeared
into the darkness under the trees and the llamas went back to grazing. I was
beside myself and kept muttering "WOW...did you see that?"
Llamas are quiet and alert, constantly surveying
their surroundings with their radar like hearing, eyesight and sense of smell. They alert
us to events that we would normally miss. On another expedition, as I was checking the boys
before retiring, I noticed that they were all staring at a line of trees. I could see
nothing, so I climbed a knoll from where I could see past the trees. As I stood there,
three bull elk emerged from the forest and started to cross the clearing. The llamas could
not see the elk but could hear them so one let out the alarm call. The elk were astonished
and confused because they had never heard that cry before. After a few moments, discretion
won out over valor and the elk vanished back into the forest. Events such as this
interaction are not uncommon. Elk are fascinated with this new creature in the forest and
have come close to camp to get a better look.
...guests love to feed the
llamas...
One of the camp chores that guests love to do is
feed the llamas. This twice daily event is looked forward to by young and old as it is fun
and helps nurture the bond between you and the llamas. As
the expression goes, the way to a man's heart is through his stomach and our
boys are no exception.
On your expedition, you will learn firsthand just
how wonderful this unique and intelligent creature is. The thumbnail sketch provided here
will be enlarged by your interaction with the boys and I'll tell you stories and answer
your questions. One of the nicest aspects of llama trekking are the llamas.
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